I love the way Jo Malone uses her Jo Loves label to throw curveballs all over the perfume world. Pink Vetiver’s name predisposes for a feminine, even girly interpretation of the classic masculine note. And the opening fullfills this promise. Momentarily. “Pink” comes mostly from pink pepper but there is also a vague florality in there that is totally unjustified by the official note listing. Bright citrus, pink pepper and ginger are the notes that I can identify but everything smells like a beautiful pink magnolia. I know pink magnolias don’t usually smell but still I cannot shake the image of the flower from my head. Very quickly though the texture of the composition starts changing. It becomes warm and velvety, almost oriental. The original freshness gives way to warm spices. The star of the heart is cumin! I love cumin in food as well as in fragrances so if you run away from it my word probably won’t count. But this is truly the most beautifully incorporated cumin note I have ever smelled. Pitched at exactly the right tone, it doesn’t smell like food at all. It adds a beautiful warm texture and accentuates the floral elements this spice carries. The longer it stays on skin, the stronger vetiver becomes. It is the classic moderately earthy, moderately smoky vetiver note that is easily found in most masculine colognes but cumin makes the difference here. It transforms coolness into an electrifying mix. The drydown is destined to be a crowd pleaser and I have a really difficult time trying to stop sniffing my wrists.
Pink vetiver evolves beautifully from a more feminine opening to a more masculine drydown but what really sets the composition apart is the ingenious use of cumin. It is a perfectly unisex composition that made me think of the way Heeley Parfums officially describe their perfumes:
On a man: a crisp, pink cotton shirt
On a woman: a sexy, grey silk blouse
Notes from Jo Loves: Pink Crushed Peppercorns, Juniper Berries, Cardamom, Cumin, Nutmeg, Ginger, Angelica, Vetiver and Amber
Notes from my nose: magnolia, ginger, pink pepper, cumin, vetiver, juniper berries
Disclaimer: the sample was offered as part of a promotion to members of Jo Loves mailing list
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