Picking this up right where I left it…
Vikt is a smoky and slightly animalic scent. It is smoky enough to make you think that this is a vetiver scent. A fresh cut wood note starts poking through the smokiness but the first half hour gives you the impression of a rather crude smoky composition. This is a very superficial judgement however. It is not a crude a composition, instead it is a perfume with an extremely prolonged opening phase. After the first half hour the smokiness subsides, the fresh cut wood becomes moist and it acquires a lovely green fruitiness, almost like green apples. Instead of becoming darker and simpler it becomes fresher and more natural. About 3 hours into the wearing Vikt reminds me of Le Labo Oud 27, with this incredibly rich but fresh woodiness and an extra fresh citrus twist.
Description from the author: bronze smoke
Notes from my nose: smoke, fecal notes, fresh cut wood, green fruits
Jeke is cloves and camp-fire in the opening. The cloves go strong for about half an hour and after wearing it I read some reviews which all speak of a very pronounced medicinal quality in this. I would have agreed if I had stayed in this initial half hour. I have to wonder whether these people washed Jeke off before giving it a real chance because after this the camp-fire note becomes a ceremonial incense and a wonderful leather note appears. This is the spicy leather variety, in the same genre as Cuir Mauresque, but a bit darker a lot more incensy. Jeke told me stories of holy wars and crusaders burning incense, praying and slaughtering infidels. It has a very spiritual and a very violent side at the same time.
Description from the author: rustic automn
Notes from my nose: cloves, smoke, leather, incense
Grev opens with a citrus like no other. Very thick and meaty, not your ordinary citrus, I can smell mostly orange with a little grapefruit and a bit of anise. Some clove mixes with the initial notes and at this point it reminds of L’Anarchiste. As it develops Grev becomes more herbal but it remains sparkling and bright. This is by all means the easiest to wear of all in the bunch but it is not banal nor classic. Imagine my surprise when I read that it is one of the slow sellers!
Description from the author: herbal apple suede
Notes from my nose: orange, grapefruit, clove, green notes
Sova opens like another version of the gingerbread only this time less edible. It smells like the wooden box where gingerbread is kept. I can also pick up hay, one of my favourite notes in perfumes. Cedar is also there. I really loved Sova for its complexity. There are all these dark notes playing in there and this is the one I would definitely run to buy. However I already own Fougere Bengale and those two cannot fit in the same wardrobe. They are not exactly the same, Fougere Bengale is greener. Sova has no detectable lavender and it is woodier, smells more red. But it is still an amazing scent. Full of nature and warmth.
Description from the author: autumn hay, honey, spice
Notes from my nose: cinnamon, clove, hay, tobacco, honey
Pear+Olive is the fragrance that made me explore Slumberhouse. It was Portia’s post that made me seek out my samples. I love the smell of pears but given my aversion to full blown fruity fragrances it is a real challenge to find something that will please me. The play of pear with olive sure sounds promising. It opens with a very real and fresh pear note coupled with a real naked skin accord. I cannot say that I get any olive from this one, at least the way I know olive. There is a milkiness that reminds me of the way olive leaves smell but the association is not strong enough to make me think of olives. Pear+Olive however succeeds in creating a pear scent that does not ooze with fruity sweetness. As it progresses it becomes milkier and greener but it remains a strange scent. There is a metallic hue in the naked skin accord that reminds me of Montale Sandflowers.
Description from the author: olive oil and fresh pear with a musky sunscreen finish
Notes from my nose: pear, naked skin, milky notes, green notes
Iska is a bonus sample of a perfume that I could not find listed in the Slumberhouse site and is probably a pre-release version as far as I could find out. It smells of delicate sweet white wine and white honey. I know the term sounds like silly marketing slang but It actually smells like pale acacia honey. It also has a slight smokiness that is very unexpected in the company of the other notes but is really delightful. It reminds me vaguely of a tree in bloom, I don’t have a particular one in mind, but this is how trees with little beige flowers smell like. It is a lot more delicate than the other Slumberhouse perfumes that were included in my package but it is built on equally complex and unconventional accords. A creamy, boozy, smoky elixir. This is one to look out for!
Notes from my nose: sweet white wine, white honey, tree blooms, light smoke, hay
I enjoyed these few days with my Slumberhouses. Fantastic experience! And I also enjoyed reading Josh Lobb’s interview on Nottable Scents. It was interesting to read there that he doesn’t like using topnotes and he prefers using absolutes instead of essential oils because he prefers the way his perfumes smell after hours on skin. It all makes sense!
A few pointers for those of you who want to try this line: do not expect to smell what the fragrance is about before at least one hour into the wearing! They are incredibly dense, some of them going up to 25% and they last for very long. Eki and Grev are the most conventional and ethereal to my nose. Some of them are being re-worked and re-released and because of the high contents of absolutes variations from batch to batch are expected. The lack of formal topnotes gives them a strange opening and usually the deep drydown is brighter than the opening. They are a definite must try for perfume aficionados who are interested in exploring more unconventional perfumes without resorting to the gimmicks of industrial ambiances. Although they are mostly sweet, this has not put me off because their sweetness comes from the richness of their composition and is combined with dark and complex notes. My reference to similarities with other fragrances I have worn, especially Lutens perfumes, does not mean that there are similarities in notes but rather a similar vision.
Disclaimer: I purchased the sample kit from slumberhou.se and additional samples were kindly offered to me by the perfumer.
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