Do you have an old aunt who lives across the city, you really love her but do not see her very often and at some point you feel the urge to visit with her because you do not know how long she will still be around? This is how I felt about Silences when I read of the upcoming release of Silence Eau de Parfum Sublime. A re-working of the 1978 classic. What brought funereal thoughts to my mind is the threatening fruity addition to the qualities of the composition and we all know what this can mean in modern day terms: throw in a dollop of fruit or candy to fit in the to paedophile chic trend that has flooded the fashion world for two reasons: (relatively) cheap models and a way to make women even more inadequate.It seems that the foodier the notes used in a perfume the younger the model used in the campaign. And a childish, cock-teaser attitude is the epitomy of erotic behaviour in the 10’s. It doesn’t matter if you juggle a career and a personal life. It doesn’t matter if you have plucked every hair on your body, cut off every gram of fat and stuffed other parts of your body that were inadequately full. You’re still not good enough, simply because you have a period! And for those of you who think that I sound like a raging feminist, take a moment to consider how fast this trend will reach the masculine side of the fence. The more content you feel about yourself the less likely you are to become a shopaholic.
With all these grim thoughts I grabbed a bottle of the current formulation (probably the 2004 version) to salvage my childhood memory of this. And what a clever move that was! My appreciation of green scents is becoming stronger with each green masterpiece that I try. The opening is a masterful combination of flowers with hyacinth being the most prominent to my nose and the bitter whip of galbanum. And I call it a whip because if you think that flowers are cute and girly you are in for a surprise. This opening is not about the adolescent in white picking flowers in the garden. It is about the gardener (man or woman) nurturing plants from seedlings just for the hope of full bloom. The floral note is only the promise of the flower through the austere green veil of galbanum. Towards the heart of the composition iris gives mass and body. By now you know that this is a serious perfume. Girls watch out! Lauren Hutton just entered the room.
The iris is creamy rather than powdery and it is joined in the base by vetiver and moss.
Now all these notes sound familiar? Silences is very closely related to Chanel No19 to my nose. It is less floral, more green and instead of leather, vetiver and oakmoss anchors this on skin. In comparison it is less introverted and more strong willed. I really cannot understand why this was marketed as just a feminine scent. Every man who enjoys a beautiful green scent would very easily wear this and love it. There is warmth, almost like a breath in this green jewel. And there is wisdom in the balance of green and floral in a way that nothing sticks out. I have found the same kind of balance in DelRae Amoureuse where tuberose and grass walk hand in hand never trying to take over each other. It is the wisdom found in silence. Jacomo has launched some amazing scents in the past and instead of trying to fruity-fy Silences they should immerse themselves in the silence of their history and relaunch masterpieces like Eau Cendrée.
Notes from Fragrantica: orange blossom, galbanum, bergamot, lemon, green notes and cassia, iris, jasmine, narcissus, hyacinth, rose and lily-of-the-valley, vetiver, musk, sandalwood, oakmoss, cedar and ambrette
Notes from my nose: hyacinth, galbanum, iris, vetiver, moss, white silk
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