I came across this petition today and I thought it was worth spreading the word. It is in French so I translate here the main body of french text:
Our fragrances are reformulated without any notice in cases of:
– regulation of certain raw materials.
– Modification to be “the flavor of the day. “
– lower the cost of production.
The consumer MUST be informed if the perfume, its evolution , and its wearing (development) have been altered .
Let us demand from the Perfume Industry the appearance of a Formula Number on each bottle of perume
The LVMH case (page 16 Le Monde, Economy , towards the middle of the document, sadly in French and too long to translate )
“Dior has repatriated the manufacture of perfumes, changing each time their formulation.Other subcontractors in the Perfume industry have suffered in the same way as Givaudan: the latest version of Kenzo Flower is no longer produced by Firmenich , the latest version of Dior Homme is no longer entrusted to IFF and finally , the latest version of Fahrenheit – the first was co-signed by Francois Denachy-is no longer produced by Sumrise.
In all four cases the new scents do not have the same olfactory characteristics as the previous versions. Even the subcontractors cannot do anything to claim to the authorship of these innovations . “
Reformulation is a big problem for perfume collectors. This article presents large companies as an unlikely ally in this combat for regulating perfume formulas and versions. When a large company looses a cotract the formula changes, the name stays the same, and the company that probably bid the lowest prize has the right to manufacture and cell a different smell under the same name. Who benefits? The label that sells its name and the subcontractor that offers “more for lees (money)”. Of course profit is not always the reason for reformulation. When a perfumer uses natural ingredients it is only expected that the original source of raw materials will dry out and alternative ingredients will have to be used. Sometimes the difference is minimal. Other times it is big. Most perfume houses choose to whistle indifferently and pretend nothing happened or even get defensive as I have recently discovered (scroll to the comments if you are interested). To my knowledge only Le Labo have admitted and justified the reformulation of Patchouli 24 and this is a brave move to the right direction.
It is for you to decide whether to sign this petition or not. I just thought it is an interesting subject and I also found very interesting the article on Le Monde which basically says that big labels have become so greedy that they change the manufacturers of their perfumes without any warning.